The Pagoda Perching High on Blue Clouds

In such a tranquil landscape, Thánh Duyên Pagoda is erected, which adds a Zen atmosphere to the whole area. As a story goes, it was in 17th century when Lord Nguyễn Phúc Chu happened to stop by this venue. The Lord was so much in love with the splendid scenery of Mount Túy Vân that he decided to have a small pagoda built in this charming setting in order to pray for his people’s peace and prosperity.

Từ Hiếu Pagoda

After strolling around the pagoda, you may wish to find a place to take a rest. My favorite seat is at a set of rock table and stools by a well and a lotus lake. I enjoy sitting in silence to enjoy the white lotus and violet water-lilies bathing in the last sun-drops of a day. By the edge of the lake, there stands a thatched roof pavilion where the monks often sit around to study or relax on sunny days. On the zigzag bamboo bridge, which links the pavilion to the other side, there seats a monk in the posture of a blooming lotus. He is reading a book without caring about the pagoda-goers nor the chirping sound of the insect around.

A boat trip on Hương River

Our fragile boat keeps smoothly surfing on the placid river as the two verdant riverside parks start to be crowded with joggers. I cup fresh water from the river, and splash it on my face to feel the cold penetrating every tiny blood vessel. Now and then, we come across a fisherman squatting on one end of the boat, trying to catch whatever Hương River can offer them. The calm river is now stirred with more boats from the sampan village start to spread everywhere.

The Servant of Hương River

For decades, many artifacts collected from the Hương River have been under Phan’s loving care. His house is overwhelmed with the artifacts and so is his big and shady garden which turns into an open antique exhibition. Some are piled up to the ceiling, some crammed in the dark and narrow attic or even in Phan’s own bedroom. They can be found anywhere that spares space for them – indoor or outdoor.

Bún mắm nêm – stinky but addictive

Bún mắm nêm noodles

I believe that among many Vietnamese fish sauces, mắm nêm is the smelliest one. Some people even compare its odor with that of a stinky shoe. However, for some foodies like myself, we are addicted to this distinctive scent. I often fight hard to keep my saliva from running whenever I smell its aroma. Like renowned durian, mắm nêm also “smells like hell, tastes like heaven”.

Nhà rường (panel houses)

In some elderly people’s mind, nhà rường is a sweet memory. My history teacher echoes how he enjoyed lying down on a cool and hard-wood plank bed by the window of his grandfather’s nhà rường in hot summer afternoons whenever he starts to talk about the old days. Back then, he was a little boy and was often lulled with old poems recited by his grandfather who was fanning him with a paper fan. For after so many years have passed, his voice is still mixed with pride and nostalgia every time he narrates about his mandarin grandfather and the nhà rường.